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Does Your Saddle
Really Fit Your Mule?
by Steve Edwards
When I first
starting riding I did like a
lot of folks do. I found a
used saddle that fit me and
in my price range; cheap!!!
I put that saddle on
everything I rode. When it
didn't seem to fit I blamed
it on the animal. Then I
added pads or cut holes in
pads. I cinched the saddle
down real tight and went
down the trail. If the
saddle felt loose I would
get off and tighten the
cinch and go on my way.
Usually the horse I would be
riding would move around
switching the tail, step
side ways, jump ahead and
kick, buck, run off, flip
over, you name it, the horse
tried it. I didn’t let those
things bother me much; after
all I was a COWBOY! It was
always the horse’s fault,
not mine or the saddle. |
I started talking with my cowboy buddies and
they convinced me that my saddle was too old
and it was fine for older raw boned high
wither horses but not for the modern horse.
I went down to J.C. Penney’s and bought a
brand new saddle. It had a new style tree in
it. The tree was made of plastic and they
guaranteed it for 5 years. The tree is the
skeleton of the saddle made up of the bars,
pommel, and cantle. (photo coming soon)
A short time later we were working cattle
and as I roped a 600 lb calf she hit the end
of my rope and out popped the horn. That was
not a good feeling to feel your saddle come
apart under you. I took it back and they
put in another tree. It happened again and
the manufacturer said I was too tough on the
saddle that it had not happened to anyone
else. They reimbursed me and I bought a
saddle with a wood tree covered in rawhide.
(photo coming soon) This saddle
served me well for a number of years riding
horses.
I had lots of folks tell me that a mule
would suit me better considering the rough
country I rode and the things I was doing.
Consequently I soon bought my first mule,
Casper. Yes, I did like a lot of folks I put
my "horse" saddle on my mule, jumped on and
tried to treat him just like a horse. I
added a lot of pads to get the saddle to
FIT. I rode with a breast collar but
not a britchen. (I wrote an article about
using a britchen entitled
Sitting on the Neck of My Mule.)
Casper taught me a lot of things starting
with going down hills. Without a britchen
that saddle went forward real fast! At that
time I didn’t know that a mule has a "V"
shape shoulder and a horse has an "A" shape
shoulder. When going uphill on a horse the
saddle goes back, on a mule it moves forward
going downhill. After getting Casper started
in his training I started looking for other
mules to train. Pretty soon I had a good
little heard of mules on my outfit and they
taught me a lot.
In 1986 I met Nick West and Delos Burk from
Alberta. Each year they wintered in the
valley they would come nearly every day to
help around the ranch rather than play cards
or shuffle board at the trailer park. They
introduced me to their good friend Abe Ewert.
Abe worked for the forest service and was a
packer out of Vancouver, B.C. Abe had
developed an adjustable pack saddle and
wanted to design a set of bars to fit mules.
We made back molds of the mules we had at
the ranch and some others. We came up with a
new bar. (photo coming soon) I have
used that bar for over 20 years on my pack
saddles.
Over the years I learned that a
semi-quarter horse tree or a full quarter
horse tree was not going to work on my mule.
I approached several saddle makers asking
questions, telling them I needed a saddle
for a mule. I did not explain what I had
discovered over the years about the
differences between a mule and horse back. I
presumed a saddle maker already knew the
difference.
After a month of riding with my new saddle
my mules started showing signs of
discomfort; shaking their head going down
hill, moving around when saddling, switching
their tail or moving around when I got on.
These were the same things I had problems
with using a horse saddle.
I went to the saddle maker and questioned
him about the type of tree he had used in my
mule saddle. He said a semi-quarter horse
tree. He assured me any problems I was
having were not from the saddle. I asked if
he had a tree the same as I had in my saddle
that I could take and set on the backs of my
mules to see the fit. We took that tree,
placed it on the mules back and it rocked
like a rocking horse. The saddle maker’s
suggestion was to add pads and blankets.
That made things worse, which started me
looking closer at the trees.
Abe came by one day and we started
discussing the problem I was having. Then it
dawned on us that we had the right bars on
the pack saddle. I started searching for a
tree that had bars similar to the pack
saddle. I looked at lots of tree
manufacture’s bars. Nothing came close to
the bar we used on the pack saddle.
By this time I had really studied mules and
discovered some big differences between
horses and mules:
First, the scapula (top of the
shoulder blade moves up and down like a
piston in an engine. Horse shoulders move
forward and back.
Second, mule shoulders are V shaped
and horse shoulders are A shaped.
Third, mules have fat pockets which
they inherit from their daddy, the donkey.
These fat pockets run on the top of the
neck, across the top of the ribs and around
the tail dock. A mule or donkey being fed
high protein feed and not working may
develop big ugly masses in theses areas. The
3rd and 4th rib area is where you can really
see the difference. A horse saddle has a
twist in it and tends to sit right on top of
these ribs. This sores the mule.
Fourth, the kidneys are closer to
the center of a mule than the center of a
horse. If a tree is setting flat in the
kidney area it may place undue pressure on
the muscles in that area. This may cause
discomfort or problems with the kidneys and
hair wear on the hind quarters.
So think about your mule’s disposition and
attitude. Is there a problem with the saddle
you’re using?
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